Uwe Heidekrüger's Masterpiece
My good friend Uwe Heidekrüger has kindly sent me some pictures of his FJ following an extensive rebuild. As with all German FJ's, Uwe's modifications have been made to the highest standard, to satisfy strict TUV ( German vehicle inspectorate) regulations. I'll let Uwe talk you through it :-
The bike is a 'white' 3CW,
which got into German traffic in May '89 since then she ran more than 160000 km
without any problems.
1) The original exhaust was removed and changed for a 4 into 1 exhaust from Remus. It saved the bike about 8.5 kg of weight and since the Remus exhaust is made from stainless steel, no problem with rust anymore. The front part was covered with black chrome. It's working absolutely perfectly on the bike. The original exhaust studs were changed for shorter ones. I used VW Golf studs which fit perfectly and cost about one third of the Yamaha ones. I also shortened the whole system by some 5cm by pushing all parts further together. This required a new rear bracket, made from 3 mm polished stainless steel.
2) Wheels was exchanged for a pair from a FZR1000 (3LE). Prior to mounting the outer parts where polished and the inside lacked in red. I used Toyota 'super red' which in my opinion comes closest to the Yamaha red.
3) When changing the rear wheel, I also exchanged the original suspension links 'dog bones' for some which where 3 mm shorter. This keeps the back at the same height as before, as the FZR wheel with 180 tire is a little smaller in the diameter than the original. Also the mudguard was shortened up to the number plate.
4) The original swingarm
was removed and changed for one from Krueger and Junginger (K&J).
This one is 9 mm higher and 5 mm wider in the arm then the original
and therefore stiffer, this gives it more stability and accommodates the
eccentric wheel adjuster. This ensures the wheel is always in correct alignment,
as when you turn the left adjuster it also turns same on the right. Easy
fitting the wheel... - brilliant. It comes already polished. In
addition was ordered a concarve axis,
which is more solid and saves weight. The torque arm to the rear caliper is in CNC machined aluminium and supplied by HBBike .
5) The original forks were removed and changed for ones from the FZR1000 (3LE). They are the longest I found (about 800mm) and when mounting I lost only 11mm in the length (compared to OEM) which makes the handling better. The biggest advantage is that due to the difference in the yokes (triple clamps) it brings the front wheel 22mm backwards and 'shortens' the bike. This definitely upgrades the handling. In addition this fork is more stiff due to the bigger squares. It can be done with the original FZR yokes, but I used a lower aluminium one from Rairotec due to it being half weight (1.6 kg less than original FZR) and bigger dimensions. This brings better stability. I used an upper aluminium handlebar conversion yoke from LSL .
6) For steering I used bars from a XJR1300 which lays perfectly in the hands. Vibration killers in the end made from stainless steel and polished.
7) The front mudguard is made by Sebimoto and painted in bike colour. Prior mounting I put some additional GRP matting in it to strengthen it a little bit. Since it's built for racing it was looking to me a little bit too light ... it's form comes optically to look close to the original.
8) The brakes where rebuilt as follows :- I used in the front the calipers from an R1 and at the back the caliper and bracket of an FZS1000 Fazer. The blue covers where removed and finished in silver. The discs where changed for waves discs by Braking in original FZR1000 size. The lines for fluid where changed for plastic covered steelflex lines made by Spiegler. All fittings and screws silver anodised aluminium. The front pipelines goes directly from the brake reservoir to the caliper. This set-up makes her brake perfectly.
9) The rear shock was removed and changed for one from Wilbers with adjustable length and remote preload. This is necessary in my opinion to compliment the swingarm. Working just great...
10) The oil-cooler pipe lines were changed for braided steel ones.
11) The original side stand was removed and changed for one, made by my uncle Leo Heidekrüger in stainless steel. It is 3 cm longer than the original and polished. He also fabricated a cover for the long front engine mounting bolt and all distance pieces between the wheels, all in original size in polished stainless steel.
12) Nearly all screws sitting in the engine on both sides, yokes, forks, swingarms and where ever I could get to were changed for stainless steel screws with polished heads or titanium screws supplied by Jaeger. I hate rust...
13) The seat was covered with new leather in 2/3 colours. When doing this the passenger seat edge was put about 4 cm forward, to give me a better seat.
14) Rear grabrails behind the seat where polished.
15) Rear indicators where changed for much smaller cat eyes from Louis.
16) The front screen was changed against a red one fm MRA.
17) The original air filter
was changed for one from K&N and
additionally a Dynojet kit stage one was
installed. To optimise the working together of airfilter, carburetors, engine
and exhaust all parts where checked several days on a 'dyno' or 'rolling road'
and she gives now great torque and enough
18) Black paint from the cylinders was removed using a steel kitchen scourer. It leaves a really shiny finish !
19) A new chain guard made from aluminium, replaces the old plastic OEM one.
20) The original Yamaha writing on the motor-spoiler was removed and changed for a Yamaha sign/label in red foil. After this the spoiler was clear lacquered.
21) The line for the clutch
fluid was exchanged for a steelflex line
from Spiegler. Also here I used polished aluminium screws in silver both ends for fastening.
22) The Japanese/English writing on the covers for the hydraulic liquids was removed and the covers polished. Same with the holders which fastens them to the steering bar, also polished. Additionally the clutch and brake levers where changed to some bought from Louis and actually designed for the V-Max. They are chrome covered and a bit 'higher', which is luxury for the hands and looks better. When mounting them I surrounded the screws with some tape which gives less vibrations in the steering bars ends.
I am most grateful to Uwe for providing
such a thorough write-up. I only wish my German were nearly as good as his
English. Beautiful bike Uwe ! TEST
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